What does Madrid taste like?

“Madrid embraces the old while celebrating the new,” says Clara Diez (@claradiez), the founder of Formaje, a boutique specialising in cheese in Madrid, and the curator of our second route for Madrid Inspira. For this reason, a foodie journey through the region combines traditional tastes – such as Cocido madrileño (a chickpea-based stew), churros with chocolate and torrijas – with fresh, dynamic flavours that give the city a new identity. Just one walk can see centuries-old wisdom from artisan producers fused with international-inspired dishes designed by ‘new Madrileños’, all set close to natural wonders such as La Sierra de Guadarrama.

“Madrid is a great eating house where there’s always a table for everyone.” Clara Diez (@claradiez), founder of Formaje, a boutique specialising in cheese in Madrid.

Despite its French-sounding name, Chamberí has managed to keep its own distinctly Spanish personality over the years – and with it the secret to a thriving hub of restaurants, cafés and gourmet shops. This little-known district still has traces of the aristocratic nineteenth and twentieth centuries, with influences from painter Joaquín Sorolla everywhere.

It’s there that Picsa, an Argentine pizzeria, will surprise you with its thick, fluffy dough and unexpected topping combinations. The favourite? Figs and duck. Meanwhile, Lúa on Paseo de Eduardo Dato is a restaurant inspired by dishes from Galicia, in north-west Spain, and boasting a Michelin star. Be sure to try the prawn bravas and the marinera clams with yellow curry – both highlight the restaurant’s respect for the natural produce and its bold reinvention.

For coffee lovers, head to Toma Café, where the baristas are full of knowledge about the origins of the beans and roasting techniques – and only too happy to share. They’ve turned drinking coffee into an art form.

Finally, Formaje is Madrid’s ‘temple of cheese’. Despite opening less than a year ago, in the middle of the pandemic, this boutique cheese shop has managed to introduce customers across the city (and the rest of Spain and Portugal through its online platform) to local delicacies while honouring the raw material. With a selection of more than 70 cheeses from small national and international producers, it has established itself within the iconic Plaza de Chamberí as a must-visit destination for both locals and guests.

Marble tables, wooden doors, barrels and tiles are all recurring features with the capital’s tavern and tascas – the perfect pairing of food and wine.

A favourite is Casa Baranda: one of the most authentic and endearing in Madrid. Sitting next to the nineteenth-century Bodega La Ardosa on Calle Colón, Casa Baranda offers a wide selection of sherry wines and traditional tapas. You mustn’t miss their cod croquettes.

Another must-visit is Cascorro Bistrot. This tavern-cum-diner serves family recipes of Spanish favourites, all with a nod to French cuisine and accompanied by natural wines – making it a very memorable experience.

Fresh, quality produce and classic recipes bring the dining room in URSO Hotel & Spa's restaurant, El Invernadero, to life. A contemporary take on Madrid’s legendary bistro in Cuenllas, the restaurant – and the iconic hotel in which it sits – offers a chance to explore one of the most historical buildings in the Las Salesas neighbourhood with a delicious twist.

The conservatory-style setting combines luxury, modernity and, above all, value for the local. And, with natural light and views of the sky, the restaurant is an oasis with sunlight streaming through its spectacular stained-glass windows and a waterfall of plants. Its menu is just as enriching, with breakfasts, brunches and teas on offer.

Downstairs, the hotel’s Urso Lobby Bar is an elegant space that’s perfect for sampling cocktails and the best Champagnes in the world – all while a piano soundtracks your evening.

Outside the capital, the food journey changes dramatically as it reflects the history, traditions and colours of each locality. Going from farm to table in a few steps, seasonal cuisine is king and features heavily on menus throughout the region.

Head south to the fertile lands where the River Tagus and Jarama meet and you’ll find historic orchards in Aranjuez – where fresh strawberries and asparagus are regularly enjoyed by royalty. Today it’s designated as a ‘cultural landscape’ by the World Heritage Centre, along with the local town.

One delicious highlight can be found at Casa Jose. Located in the Casa de Postas of the city, the restaurant offers rich, healthy plant-based cuisine that’s dictated by the seasons and the crops in its gardens.

Elsewhere, the Montia de San Lorenzo de El Escorial restaurant is another hero of local cuisine. It bases its creations on the scents and flavours found in the Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range, resulting in a dynamic menu that truly listens to the land.

And from the mountains of Guadarrama to the Sierra Norte. Just an hour's drive from Madrid is Patones de Arriba, a mountain town dating from roughly 1500. There, the restaurant El Poleo by chef Paco Bello transforms traditional dishes with creative touches, among which the honey lamb stands out. End your rural experience in the charming El Tiempo Perdido hotel or the magical Jardín del Poleo – a remarkable trilogy in first-class hospitality.