Inside Madrid’s creative corners
Artist Valeria Palmeiro (better known as Coco Dávez) takes us on an inspirational tour of the most creative spots across the capital and its neighbouring areas.
By Las Rozas Village
“At a time when we’re restricted, with our eyes firmly on the future, I decided to embrace the present by exploring my city with new eyes,” explains photographer and artistic director Coco Dávez (@cocodavez), who’s worked with the likes of Kenzo, Prada and Vogue. “Every day I walked the streets with the purpose of finding something new – discovering hidden corners and rooftops, new neighbourhoods and projects – as well as rediscovering my old favourite places of inspiration. From the gallery that always surprises me with new artists to the bookstore and museums that always keep me coming back, this is my arts and cultural tour of Madrid.”
Madrid, entre el legado y la innovación
Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum
Forming one leg of the ‘Paseo del Arte’, Madrid’s art walk, is the Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum. Alongside the Reina Sofía Museum and the Prado Museum, it’s well-established as an icon in the art world.
“The talent of an artist is a gift to the world (...) Painters do not make their work for the eyes of one man. My legacy as a collector is to share,” said Hans Heinrich Thyssen-Bornemisza. The Thyssen-Bornemisza family first began collecting avant-garde art from the last century, before adding German expressionism, impressionism, post-impressionism, pop art and hyperrealism to their collection.
Inside you’ll find an outstanding collection of more than 1,000 works, ranging from the thirteenth to the twentieth century artistic movements, including those originating in North America, which is rare in Spain. The colourful works of Kandinsky, pop art from Roy Lichtenstein, American realism of Edward Hooper and Georgia O'Keeffe’s flowers are just a few highlights.
Elsewhere the ‘Art Meets Fashion’ route stands out. There, art and fashion are examined in parallel through fabrics, textures, colours, shapes and model poses. The museum visit is complemented by an exclusive shopping experience at Las Rozas Village.
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Las Salesas
Independent fashion and design brands sit alongside antique dealers, craft shops and foodie delights (Café Gijón is excellent) in Madrid’s Las Salesas neighbourhood. Taking its name from the local Convent of the Salesas Reales, a former convent from the eighteenth century, this area combines this ornate architecture with more modern, minimalist art galleries and workshops.
Newly opened on Calle Barquillo is the Taschen Bookstore, which is filled with books on art, design, architecture, photography, film and more. “Nothing compares to the pleasure of losing yourself in the pages of a new book,” says Coco.
A few stores down sits the beautiful ANCLADEMAR concept store, full of hidden treasures. Browse unique pieces, old magazines, art and fashion books, decorative interiors, candles, clothes and more – plus enjoy a friendly chat with owners Guille and Luís, the two most charming people.
Just steps away, on Calle Santo Tomé, hangs a banner with a star that directs you to the Max Estrella Gallery. Hidden through a private courtyard, the contemporary art space, which focuses on new technologies, showcases works by established artists and future talents alike. Not to be missed!
Photos from left to right: Taschen Bookstore / Concept store Ancla de Mar / Max Estrella Gallery
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Centro Cultural Conde Duque
Formally home to the Royal Corps Guards, the Centro Cultural Conde Duque now houses everything from theatre and dance to film, audio-visual and music. There’s even a library and contemporary art museum inside. Sitting next to the exquisite Liria Palace, there’s always something to enjoy at this cultural centre – from jazz concerts in its courtyard to artistic installations, design shows and vintage markets. Together with Matadero Madrid and CentroCentro, this creative hub in the Malasaña neighbourhood completes the triad of cultural facilities in the capital.
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Four Seasons Hotel Madrid
With more than 2,500 works of art on its walls, Madrid’s Four Seasons Hotel should be considered the city’s unofficial art gallery. Equal parts vibrant, modern and luxury, the hotel sits within a restored architectural gem but its art works are decidedly more forward-facing. Supporting emerging talent through partnerships with Spanish fine art courses, the hotel is filled with paintings, sculptures and photographs that only guests can see. Pieces by up-and-coming artists are combined with high-quality replicas of works that grace the halls of the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza.
If fashion design is your medium of choice, look out for the hotel’s uniforms, which were designed by costume designer Lorenzo Caprile. Elsewhere the interiors were dreamt up renowned interior design expert Luis Bustamante.
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Walking through art
Outside of the capital, the artistic community is abundant, and just as diverse and surprising. From large palaces to hidden corners, they all make up the magic that is Madrid.
Alcalá de Henares
For an insight into authentic Spanish storytelling, head to Alcalá de Henares, a city northeast of Madrid, where you’ll find the Casa Natal de Cervantes Museum. There, the work of writer Miguel de Cervantes – best known for writing the first modern novel Don Quixote – his childhood and life in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries are explored. The writer is celebrated for his creation of the ‘hidalgo’ (or ‘gentleman’) figure in literature and art. From ballets and cinema to paintings by artists such as Picasso, Dalí, Chagall, Cézanne or the always colourful Eduardo Arroyo, this figure has permeated stories across the world.
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Buitrago de Lozoya
While there are numerous museums that celebrate Pablo Picasso – affectionately known as the genius of Malaga in Spain – none are as intimate as the Picasso Museum, featuring the Eugenio Arias collection, in the town of Buitrago de Lozoya. Born from a 26-year friendship with the acclaimed painter, Eugenio Arias’ collection reflects the pair’s mutual hobbies and desires – with many pieces dedicated to bullfighting, Spain, the Mediterranean Sea and the dove of peace. Elsewhere you’ll find posters, dedications, a unique ceramic collection and even barber tools (Arias was Picasso’s barber while he lived in Vallauris in France).
Don’t forget to explore the rest of Buitrago de Lozoya and its old town too, where a natural, medieval landscape full of stories hints at its artistic legacy.
Las Rozas Village
From inspiring displays to art installations, creativity is built into the DNA of Las Rozas Village. Aside from its unforgettable shopping experience, the Village is renowned for its support of local talent, whether artistic, fashion or food. It provides emerging designers the opportunity to share space with some of the biggest names in fashion across more than 100 boutiques. With collaborations with museums in Madrid, market artisan pop-ups and art installations inside boutique windows, the Village streets are turned into an open-air exhibition that’s a joy to marvel at.
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Your guide to fashionable Madrid
Discover the region’s most stylish secrets on a cultural, gastronomic and artistic journey led by Las Rozas Village’s insider ambassadors.
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